SCENIC BEAUTY: The Gorges du Verdon in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

Some of the best examples of Splendor in France are definitely not its most famous sites. In this country, happiness is not necessarily the Eiffel Tower, or the beaches of Cannes and the French Riviera. Often, quite to the contrary, it is found in the tranquil reaches of a small medieval village. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is one such villages, located in the Provence region, in the Lower Alps of the country, in the South-East of France. It is a bit out of reach when driving or taking the train, as it is not along any major highway, but the extra detour is well worth it, as upon arrival, most are quite unable to not stand in some level of awe.

PATRICK HACIKYAN/

This little village was founded in the 5th century, by a small group of monks. They built their monastery and a village slowly accumulated around it. When looking up to the present day Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, it is easy to understand and guess why, they chose such a place. Nestled at the top of the foot of very steep mountain cliffs, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie stands at an elevation of 650 meters. What a trek it must have been, to make it here all the way from Avignon, on horseback. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie grew into a sizeable location, having at it’s feet, the entranceway to some of the most wonderful sinews of the Gorges of the Verdon river.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, perched in the mountains. Photo: © GEC

This Provençal hamlet actually became a fairly important agglomeration, as it became known as a local center. A stream runs through the middle of the village, coming down from the mountains, it creates a waterfall. This water power was harnessed, and enabled the population to produce some goods. The nearby river also permitted some level of transportation. Today the Verdon is almost entirely used for relaxation and recreation purposes. However, at the base of the village lies the Lake de Sainte-Croix. This lake was recently made as it is a reservoir created by the construction of the nearby hydroelectric Sainte-Croix dam in 1973. This created a base station for boating and swimming enthusiasts for the surrounding villages as well as tourists who venture to these parts.

The shores of the Lake de Sainte-Croix, where the Verdon Gorges waters land. Photo: © GEC

However, the true highlight of the local hydrography lying at the base of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, are the gorges themselves. The gorgeous Gorges du Verdon trace a sinuous path in the mountains with it’s amazingly crystal blue waters, they seem to defy some conventions of nature. This unique location is a companion to the man made work of art that is the constructed Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. It remains a natural work divinely sculpted by the forces of time and nature.

The Gorges du Verdon, in their summer splendor. Photo: © GEC

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is also known for it’s pottery. Indeed, ever since the 16th century, a specific enamelled pottery called faience has been produced in Moustiers. Up until today, it even developed its own style. It often incorporates scenes of hunting in its designs. It even competed with Holland porcelain and faience productions in its heyday. People can still observe the river running through Moustiers, that passes under the main stone bridge of the village. The scene is the most famous one, as it has often been drawn by artists, and pictured by countless cameras and telephones.

If you look above this bridge, you will find the famous star that overlooks the village, hanging between the two peaks. Many legends exist about who put it there for the first place, but no one knows for sure. Many of these origin stories stipulate that it was one or another knight, that promised to hang the star there in thanks for some seemingly divine intervention. This small star is regularly replaced, and it is now part of the official heraldry of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie.

Today, it is possible to drive all the way up to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. Some restaurants serve excellent cuisine there, at a fair price. Most will also want to take a dip in the Verdon river, if the temperature permits it. Do remember to bring a bathing suit if you wish to do so. During the summer months, there are often long lines on the shores of the Lake of Sainte-Croix. This is because many like to rent kayaks, pedal boats and other light craft to vogue into the gorges. The wait is often quite worth it, but do bring a hat or a sun umbrella, because the sun is massively strong.

Many untold beauties exist in this world, but Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is definitely of world class. Both the village and the waters at its base are a sight to behold. There is nothing quite like it, so try to go, if you can, but when there are smaller crowds, in the end of season.