Georgia, an ancient country of the Caucasus. For some, it is off the beaten tracks, although for the wider area, it is a key piece of a regional puzzle, intersection and gateway to Eastern Europe and occidental Asia. For this small country, the centuries have enabled it to develop it’s own distinct culinary palette. Georgia has been at the intersection of multiple invasions and competing kingdoms. It is for this reason that long ago, a unique little gastronomical package was adopted by the people of the land, and adapted to the climate and local taste. This package is what we know now by the name khinkali.

Patrick Hacikyan/

In surrounding countries, many different dumplings are made and celebrated. The khinkali, however, is the specifically Georgian hearty dumpling. It is an archetypal sight. These pouches of sustenance have been a staple of Georgian cuisine since medieval times, in the 1200’s.

The Mongolian invasions of the 1200’s also brought with them culinary bagage.

During the Mongol invasions of the 13th century, not just military, but also cultural exchange happened. One key gastronomical piece of the heritage gained at that time, definitely is the dumpling. It is thanks to the Mongols that we still find dumpling variations in surrounding Russia, Armenia, Turkey and beyond. In each case, they gave rise to delicious traditions. In Georgia, the dumpling archetype that was retained is the one that is quite large, twisted and pinched at the top, then boiled.

The khinkali: a distant traveler

A khinkali has a unique feature: it hides soup within. This type of dumpling is unlike the others in neighbouring countries. The fact that it has a component that must be drunk makes it stand alone. Not completely alone, however; in China we can still today find some of the khinkali’s cousins that also contain soup. Indeed, all of the tang bao dumplings contain soup. The word literally translates to: soup bundle. The most famous of these soup dumplings is the Xiao long bao from Nanjing and Shanghai. So, from China to Georgia, we can thank the Mongol troops for this time and space travelling bundle

A distant relative of the Khinkali: the Chinese tang bao.

It is for the same reason that we find sauerkraut traditions living in Europe today. The tradition of lacto-fermenting  cabbage and other vegetables was first developed in China and Korea, and traveled along with Ghengis Khan and his descendants all along their conquests. If one looks closely, we can observe similar dissemination routes, as the sauerkraut traditions are most vibrant today not far from where that immense empire met Europe. Sauerkraut is thus now part of the gastronomical heritage of nations such as Hungary, Poland, Germany, Russia, Latvia Ukraine, Serbia, Croatia and their neighbours.

The heartland filled bundle

Nevertheless, the khinkali has evolved separately and developed into an entirely unique dumpling of its own. As it first arrived in Georgia through the mountains, such as those of the Tusheti region, north of Tbilisi. Therefore, shepherds and local population first made it using lamb meat, then beef in a smaller proportion. The classic khinkali was made using onions, garlic, local chili peppers as well as cumin.

Today, many different kinds of khinkali are made. In Tbilissi there are numerous khinkali bistros. One can find them with potatoes, pork, different herbs such as coriander and many other innovations. However, there is always a demand for the original classic khinkali. One of the best places to sample them in Tbilissi is Amo Rame Khinkali. It is an offshoot of the restaurant of the same name: Amo Rame. This bistro specialises in khinkali as well as some other classic Georgian dishes. There, you will be able to order khinkali just like they are made in Georgian homes.

The classic khinkali of Amo Rame Khinkali, in downtown Tbilisi.

Another difference that is a unique characteristic of the khinkali is it’s crust. Compared to its twice removed cousins of China, the dough pouch is much thicker. Perhaps two or three times as thick.  This is because it is made from a different flour, and results in a chunkier outer dumpling, sealing in the meat for prolonged cooking. The result is a very hearty dumpling. One can imagine that it is made in this way in order to offer a perfect consistency for the Georgian climate, which has snow in winter and it’s own mountainous atmosphere.

Khinkali etiquette

When preparing the khinkalil, the meat and seasoning is added raw in the dumpling, where it boils under the watchful care of the cook. The result is that the cooking juices of the lamb or other meats accumulate and form a savory broth. This forms the base of the said soup contained in this dumpling. It goes without saying that the soup and the filling of the dumpling perfectly match their flavours together.

Many foreigners go to Georgia and dig into their khinkali with their fork and knife. This, in fact, is an error of etiquette. The khinkali has a twisted and pinched tip, called the kudi. This piece closes together the bundle that is the khinkali, but also serves as a handle to pick up the dumpling with your hands. Yes, the khinkali must be eaten with the hand holding it from under by the kudi, with the mass of the dumpling facing the mouth. Taking the first bite will also be taking in the first gulp of broth. Not to be missed. Eating the khinkali then becomes all the more pleasant .

Georgian khinkali joint

For those wanting to try the original homemade style khinkali, Amo Rame Khinkali is the perfect sampling location. There, you will find a very simple place where you can enjoy this dish with a Georgian beer or wine. The place often features Georgian songs playing as well. This bistro also serves some rustic dishes alongside the khinkali. One of these is the chakapuli, a Georgian dish made with veal meat.

Amo Rame Khinkali

The chakapuli is a dish standing somewhere between the soup and the stew. It is made with veal its own broth, cooked for two hours in the oven and in the pot. It features its own aromatic bouquet made with tarragon, cherry plums and other choice herbs and spices. Amo Rame khinkali is definitely not a pompous tourist trap. It is a place where locals of the Sololaki district of Tbilisi go to have khinkali in a simple atmosphere. For those wanting to sample the authentic everyday Tbilisi khinkali, it is the perfect place.

Georgia is a country that harbours many lesser known treasures. Among them is its gastronomical heritage, of which the people are very fond of. It is a hearty cuisine, made in concordance with the local environment, and the result certainly is unique.